Climb one of Baker’s classic ice routes and find some big mountain adventure
While the crowds ply the traditional glacier walks on Mount Baker’s Coleman-Deming, Easton, and Squak Glaciers, you can find a more technical, exciting, and adventurous experience climbing the mountain’s North Ridge! The ridge is one of the few technical ice climbs on the mountain and rewards climbers up to the task with an incredible mountain experience with a little hint of adventure from the world’s bigger ranges!
Rising dramatically above the vast, fractured Coleman Glacier as a striking lobe of blue alpine ice perched atop of a volcanic ridgeline, the North Ridge attracts climbers from all over looking to apply their technical mountain skills, and the route itself has served multiple generations of Cascade mountaineers who have sought to prepare themselves to climb in some of the great ranges of the world.
If you have experienced glacier mountaineering and some ice climbing, and you have been wondering what route will let you experience them all together, the North Ridge is your route!
Trip Stats
Duration: 2-3 days
Cost: $1000 (2 days); $1200 (3 days)
Guest-Guide Ratio: 1:1, 2:1
Difficulty: alpine ice 3 (AI3), steep snow
Skill Level: Advanced
Fitness Requirement: 4.5/5
Itinerary
Day 1: Depart from Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead. Approach base camp (2300-2500 vertical gain over ~2.5-2.7 miles (campsite-dependent)
Day 2: ~3:00am departure from basecamp. Traverse the Coleman Glacier; approach the ridge via the Hourglass Couloir (early season) or the ridge toe (later season); ice climb through the ridge to summit; descend to basecamp via the Coleman Glacier
Day 3: Late wake up; pack up camp; descend back to the trailhead; obligatory cold beverage at the car!
What skills do you need?
Experience being on a glacier rope team and steep snow travel
Experience with top rope ice climbing
Experience with ice tools, crampons, and ice screws
Knowledge of glacier travel and climbing knots
Knowledge of how to lead belay
Want to develop more of your mountain skills before signing up for this trip? The trips below can help you get ready!
Other Trip Info
What’s included in the trip?
Professional guiding and instruction services for the duration of the trip.
Access permits
Group climbing equipment
Group camping equipment
What’s NOT included in the trip?
Lunches and snacks to eat while on the mountain.
Guest’s individual climbing, cooking and camping gear.
Transportation. However, carpooling can be arranged, if necessary.
Gear
Guests are responsible for providing their own climbing equipment for this style of alpine trip.
For camping, personal tents are encouraged, but they are not required. Ask for more details.
For a complete list of the gear you will need, download the packing list here.
Meals
Dinner and breakfasts are provided. Lunches and snacks are the responsibility of the guests. Reasonable accommodations can be made for those with food allergies and/or dietary restrictions.