Spend 3 days in the heart of the North Cascades.

Rising above Cascade Pass as a dramatic, glacially sculpted granite horn, Forbidden Peak is one of the birthplaces of alpine climbing in the US. Modern climbing here dates all the way back to 1940, when young brothers Fred and Helmy Beckey along with their climbing partners Jim Crooks, Lloyd Anderson, and David Lind, first ascended the mountain against the protests of their parents (hence the name “Forbidden!”).

The mountain has since then attracted climbers from the world over, as each side of the mountain features high-quality, adventurous alpine climbing routes. The West Ridge is far and away the most popular and storied of them all, giving climbers a taste of an Alps-style ridge across a narrow spine of granite with dramatic exposure all the way down to the glaciers, snowfields, moraines, and lakes below.

If your skill set is up to the challenge, the West Ridge is an incredible objective!

Trip Stats

Duration: 3 days

Guide–Guest Ratio: 1:1, 2:1

Difficulty: 5.6, steep snow

Skill Level: Advanced

Fitness Requirement: 4/5

Itinerary

Day 1: Depart from Boston Basin Trailhead. Approach base camp (~3000 vertical feet over 3 miles). Establish basecamp.

Day 2: ~4:00am departure from camp for summit big; approach via West Ridge Couloir or Cat Scratch Couloir; climb ridge; descend ridge and couloir back to camp (avg. 12-16 hours round-trip).

Day 3: Pack up camp; descend to trailhead; obligatory cold beverage at the trailhead!

What skills do you need?

  • Outdoor rock climbing experience

  • Knowledge of how to lead belay

  • Rappelling experience

  • Knowledge of basic climbing knots

  • Experience with glacier and steep snow travel.

Want to develop more of your mountain skills before signing up for this trip? The trips below can help you get ready!

Other Trip Info

What’s included in the trip?

  • Professional guiding and instruction services for the duration of the trip.

  • Access permits

  • Group climbing equipment

  • Group camping equipment

What’s NOT included in the trip?

  • Lunches and snacks to eat while on the mountain.

  • Guest’s individual climbing, cooking and camping gear.

  • Transportation. However, carpooling can be arranged, if necessary.

Gear

Guests are responsible for providing their own climbing equipment for this style of alpine trip.

For camping, personal tents are encouraged, but they are not required. Ask for more details.

For a complete list of the gear you will need, download the packing list here.

Meals

Dinner and breakfasts are provided. Lunches and snacks are the responsibility of the guests. Reasonable accommodations can be made for those with food allergies.